Finding Arizona's Pages

Thursday, May 28, 2020

Pipe Spring National Monument




Credit:  Linda & Dr. Dick Buscher
1.  The Arizona Strip is a desolate and vast region of northern Arizona consisting of nearly 3 million acres (1,214,057 ha) that is separated from the rest of Arizona by the magnificent Grand Canyon. The strip stretches for more than 7,800 square miles (20,202 km²) from the southern Utah border to the 277 miles (446 km) length of the northern rim of the Grand Canyon.  For early travelers, the difficulty in crossing the Grand Canyon resulted in the strip being isolated from the rest of Arizona while taking on cultural traditions and norms more closely associated with the settlement of Utah.  Yet, this barren and remote land has long played an important and critical role in the history of this part of America.   


Credit:  NPS
2.  Native Americans have long made this arid land their homes.  Ancient Puebloans were the first to live and prosper in the region with archeological artifacts found here dating back over 8,000 years. The Southern Paiute people have claimed this high desert land as a part of their homeland since 1100.  They dug small irrigation ditches in the desert soil to bring the water from desert springs into their fields of squash, sunflowers, pumpkin and corn.  NPS photo above was taken in 1878 and shows three Southern Paiute girls carrying baskets sealed with pine pitch. 


Credit:  NPS
3.  The first Europeans to pass through the Arizona Strip were a party lead by Spanish missionary Father Silvestre VĂ©lez de Escalante.  Spanish conquistadors and priests had visited the South Rim of the Grand Canyon in 1540 as a part of the Coronado Expedition but Father Escalante and his party first viewed the Grand Canyon from the North Rim in 1776.  In 1829, Spanish merchant Antonio Armijo, shown above, arrived in this land hoping to establish a trade route from Santa Fe, New Mexico to Los Angeles, California.  Toward the north central region of the Arizona Strip just south of what today is the Utah/Arizona border, he came upon a series of springs that brought fresh water to the surface of the desert land.  Armijo documented the springs and continued his trailblazing of the Old Spanish Trail. 


Credit:  NPS
4.  From 1830 to the mid-1850s, the Old Spanish Trail saw extensive use by pack trains carrying goods and people over the 700 mile (1,100 km) long trail.  It was considered one of the most difficult of all trade-route trails ever established in the United States.  One sad chapter of that trade was the opening of slave trade market by the Spanish merchants, capturing and removing Paiute women and children from their Arizona Strip homes.  Soon raiding Navajos and Utes began working for the Spanish, capturing and selling the Paiute women and children.  As a result, the Paiute people moved away from the springs of water first documented by Armijo that had long been a Paiute homesite to protect their women and children. Archeologists believe that the Southern Paiutes Kaibab band had a population of about 5,500 individuals at the time of European arrival into the Americas in 1492.  By 1860 the Southern Paiute population was estimated to be as few as 200 individuals. 



Credit:  Washington County Historical Society
5.  Mormon pioneers began exploring and moving into the Arizona Strip by the late 1850s.  The life-giving springs, first documented by Antonio Armijo, were rediscovered by a group of Latter-day Saint missionaries in 1858 traveling to the Hopi mesas and led by legendary Morman trailblazer Jacob Hamblin.  This expedition would name the area Pipe Spring.  Western lore states this name originated when William “Gunlock Bill” Haynes Hamblin, brother of Jacob Hamblin, bragged that he could shoot and hit a clay smoking pipe at a distance of 50 paces.  Gunlock Bill’s aim was perfect and the site has been known as Pipe Spring ever since.  



Credit:  Linda & Dr. Dick Buscher
6.  During the 1860s Mormon settlers brought herds of cattle to the Pipe Spring area and its reliable source of fresh water.  Navajo raiders from the south began poaching the cattle and in 1872 a fort, shown above, was built over the main spring of water by the first ranch manager, Anson Perry Winsor. This location assured that the settlers who worked the ranch would have a continual source of fresh water even during a prolonged attack. The fort soon became known as Winsor Castle and became the headquarters of the areas ever expanding Mormon cattle operation.  Winsor Castle also served as a way station for the many Mormon families traveling from Utah to northeastern Arizona to begin new Mormon communities.  

 
 Credit:  Linda & Dr. Dick Buscher
7.  Winsor Castle was never tested in battle and soon became used only as a ranch house and later as a private residence.  Since Winsor Castle covers Pipe Spring itself, the fresh water from Pipe Spring runs underground through a series of pipes before an open trough carries it across one room of the castle then emerging to the outside and filling two nearby ponds.  See photo above. 


Credit:  NPS
8.  Winsor Castle, as well as later built cabins were constructed by the quarrying of red sandstone from  local hillsides.  Local timber was harvested from trees growing in the nearby mountains and hauled to the construction site.  The castle is made up of ten rooms on two levels.  In two of the wall sections, the doors and windows face inward to a central courtyard totally inclosed by a high wall.  The upper walls were constructed with verandas connected together by an elevated corridor above the main gate.  Gun ports were strategically built into the walls but were never used in a battle.  A map of Pipe Spring is shown above.

 
 Credit:  NPS
9.  As Mormon settlement increased throughout southern Utah and the Arizona Strip the need to communicate with these distant settlements became a great concern for church leaders in Salt Lake City, Utah.  In 1871 the Deseret Telegraph Company set the poles and strung the necessary wire across this high desert landscape to Pipe Spring establishing the first telegraph station in the Territory of Arizona. Eliza Luella Stewart, age 16, became the first telegraph operator at Pipe Spring.  During the telegraph’s years of operation from 1871 - 1888, seven other women served as the Pipe Spring telegraph operator.


Credit:  Linda & Dr. Dick Buscher
10.   The famous Honeymoon Trail is an integral part of the Pipe Spring story.  Beginning in 1877, young Mormon couples living in Northern Arizona and Southwest Utah needed to travel to the Mormon Temple located in St. George, Utah to get their marriage vows sealed. The Mormon Temple in St. George was the first temple completed and dedicated west of the Mississippi River. The journey could be short or several hundred miles in length depending on where the couple lived.  It could take a few days or several weeks since their horse drawn wagons could only cover about 15 miles (24 km) each day.  They had to cross a desolate land with many potential hardships.  Most spent many nights sleeping on the ground under a canopy of a million stars.  The fresh water of Pipe Spring was a welcome rest station for these newly wed travelers.  Thousands of newly married couples made this challenging journey.  Shown above is a section of the Honeymoon Trail still scarred into the high desert floor on the Arizona Strip in northern Arizona. 

    
Credit:  NPS
11.  In 1907 the Kaibab Paiute Indian Reservation was established.  The reservation surrounded the privately owned Pipe Spring Ranch.  In 1923 the ranch was purchased from the tribe.  In May 1923 in President Warren G. Harding declared Pipe Spring a national monument to commemorate Western pioneer life.  The National Park Service is now responsible for the maintenance of the ranch, preserving it as it once was in its heyday.  The establishment of Pipe Spring National Monument was a part of a decade of development of parks and highways in southern Utah and northern Arizona to enhance the tourism business.   


Credit:  NPS
12.  Today, Pipe Spring National Monument is composed of 40 acres (16 ha) and receives over 25,000 visitors each year.  Many of those visitors stop here before continuing on to nearby Zion National Park, one of Utah’s Mighty Five national parks.  But for those who take the time to take the park ranger tour, a new appreciation for and understanding of the challenges of settling and carving out a living in this remote area of the American Southwest is surely gained.    


Credit:  Linda & Dr. Dick Buscher
13.  Pipe Spring National Monument is a wonderfully preserved settlement of the Old West.  For thousands of years men and animals have come to this site to refresh in the cool waters from the underground springs.  It has been and continues to be an oasis in the high desert.  Late spring through early fall are the best seasons to visit and this national monument is a “must see” for all who cherish the history of the American West. 
 
 

Friday, May 22, 2020

Rainbow Bridge National Monument


Credit: NPS
1.  The American West is a land of spectacular landscapes and unique geological formations.  Views like  Oxbow Bend, shown above, from Dead Horse Point State Park near Canyonlands National Park, Utah, are easy to access by modern, paved roads.  But some of The West’s most spectacular formations, require a little more effort to reach but the experience and the views are well worth the effort.  One such remote vista is Rainbow Bridge National Monument along the shores of Lake Powell in the State of Utah.  



 Credit: Linda & Dr,  Dick Buscher
2.   Rainbow Bridge National Monument is small in size, only 160 square acres (65 ha) and is under the protection of the rangers of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area.  Due to its remoteness, Rainbow Bridge National Monument is currently accessible only by two, 14+ mile (23 km) hiking trails leading from Navajo Mountain or a two-hour boat ride from one of three marinas located on Lake Powell and then a 1.5 mile (2.4 km) hike.  The natural rock bridge rises 290 feet (88 m) above Bridge Creek and has a span over Bridge Creek of 275 feet (84 m).  The top of the arch is 42 feet (13 m) thick and 33 feet (10 m) wide.





Credit: USGS
3.  Rainbow Bridge National Monument is located in the Four Corners area on the massive Colorado Plateau, a 240,000 square mile (386,242 sq km) region of spectacular geological formations and natural beauty.  It is hidden away in Bridge Canyon, one of the many isolated canyons at the base of Navajo Mountain and one of nearly 100 named canyons that surround Lake Powell.  Long known by Native American tribes, Rainbow Bridge is called by the Navajo People Nonnezoshe, which translates to means “rainbow turned to stone.”


 Credit: NPS
4.  The genesis of Rainbow Bridge began in the late Triassic Period and continues through the Jurassic Period between 187 sf 200 million years ago.  During this span of time the whole Colorado Plateau region alternated between shallow seas and desert regions similar to today’s Sahara Desert.  This ebb and flow of water resulted in the grains of ancient sand dunes being dispersed into thick layers of sediment ultimately forming sandstone with different degrees of hardness.  Modern geologist acknowledge that Rainbow Bridge is made up entirely of Navajo Sandstone which overlies the thick layers of sandstone, shale and limestone known as the Kayenta Formation which is exposed underneath the bridge. 



Credit: NPS
5.  During the last great ice age, multiple regional creeks flowed from the surrounding mountains, seeking their way to the ancestral Colorado River.  Bridge Creek was one such stream.  Its waters slowly carved through the softer rocks flowing away from the harder Navajo Sandstone of Rainbow Bridge.  These waters created a wide, hairpin curve that flowed around the solid geological fin of sandstone ( see picture above).  But running water is a constant abrasive upon rock and over time, the sediment in Bridge Creek broke away the softer layers of sandstone while leaving the harder layers of Navajo Sandstone behind in the shape of Rainbow Bridge.



 Credit: NPS
6.  In the world of geology, a natural bridge differs from a natural arch by the way it is formed.  Natural bridges, like Rainbow Bridge, are created by the erosive forces of flowing water and span ravines and/or valleys.  Arches, like those commonly found at Arches National Park, do not span ravines and/or valleys and are formed by the forces of weathering and rockfalls along fractures and joints.  




Credit: NPS
7.  Diversity is the usual description for the plants and animals that are found in and round Rainbow Bridge National Monument.  Grassland and shrubland are the two dominate plant communities found within the monument.  In addition some 7 species of amphibians, 311 species of birds, 27 species of fish, 64 species of mammals and 28 species of reptiles can be found within the monuments boundary.  Life giving fresh water is provided not only by Lake Powell but also by Bridge Creek, shown above, which is one of several local creeks that drain the rain and snow that fall upon Navajo Mountain. 



Credit: NPS
8.  A unique plant community found along the trail leading to Rainbow Bridge is that known as a hanging garden.  Hanging gardens are surprisingly common in the canyons of the Colorado Plateau.  The hanging garden of Rainbow Bridge is composed of a diverse water loving plants such as orchids, lilies, sedges and ferns.  The hanging garden is teeming with life as upwards to 35 species of endemic plants as well as terrestrial and aquatic invertebrates, birds, mammals and amphibians all take advantage of the seeping water from the sandstone rock to carrying on their life activities.  Shown above are species of Helleborine orchids and maidenhair ferns, both found in the hanging garden of Rainbow Bridge National Monument.




Credit: NPS
9.  Of the 311 species of birds that visit the national monument, the Southwestern Willow Catcher, Empidonax traillii extimus, shown above, is one of the more interesting.  Placed on the Endangered Species list in 1995, these little flycatchers have a large impart on a regions insect population.  It commonly nests within arid region riparian areas, taking advantage of all the insect life that comes to the fresh water. Southwestern Willow Catchers are insectivores dining on a variety of both flying and terrestrial insects such as gnats, flies, beetles, butterflies and caterpillars.  They employ a “sit and wait” strategy, locating their prey by sight before speeding out to capture it.  Loss of habitat, livestock grazing and invasive species all pose a threat to their survival as a species. 


  
Credit: NPS
10. Kangaroo rats, Microdipodops pallidus, shown above, are a common mammal found within Rainbow Bridge National Monument.  With their long tails, big four-toed hind feet, small ears and big brown eyes, they are perfectly adapted to this high desert region.  Even though plenty of fresh water is available here, kangaroo rats have evolved to surviving without drinking water, acquiring their needed moisture from the seeds that they eat.  In some regions they are known as kangaroo mice and are represented by some 23 different species within their family classification.  They have excellent hearing even appearing to be able to hear the muffled sound of an approaching owl.  Their large back legs can propel them upwards to 9 feet (2.75m) when startled and escaping a predator.




Credit: NPS
11.  Rainbow Bridge has a long tradition in the history of the Native American people who have long called these desert lands their home.  Within the Hopi tradition, the Snake Clan People of Navajo Mountain were the first Hopi clan to arrive at the Hopi mesas in northern Arizona.  The sandstone bridge is credited in Hopi legend as the a source of aboriginal knowledge.  The region of Rainbow Bridge was a sanctuary for the Hopi people during the Great Pueblo Revolt of 1680. Within the Navajo tradition, Rainbow Bridge plays an integral part of their origin story which explains their emergence into this world.  Rainbow Bridge is also the place for the Navajo people where Monster Slayer and Born for Water return to the sacred Navajo land after their journey to Father Sun.




Credit: Linda & Dr,  Dick Buscher
12. At times since the completing of Glen Canyon Dam in 1963, the waters of Lake Powell have risen so high that they flow under Rainbow Bridge, as seen above.  The last time this event occurred was in 1999 when the waters of Lake Powell rose to a level of 3,696 feet (1,127 m).  The waters that backed-up under Rainbow Bridge rose to a depth of 43 feet (13 m).  At such lake depth, visiting Rainbow Bridge is an easier adventure with no hiking involved.  Currently, September 14, 2019, the depth of Lake Powell is at 3,617 feet (1,102 m) and is holding 4,381,991,363,935 gallons of water. 




Credit: NPS
13.  Like all geological formations, Rainbow Bridge will someday fall to the forces of erosion and weathering.  Current National Park geologists insist that the bridge is currently strong and stable.  And even though the bridge naturally expands upwards to 1 inch. (2.57 cm) in diameter due to the normal summer heat patterns, this expansion and contraction has been going on for thousands of years and will likely continue to do so.  Rainbow Bridge is just another of the many amazing natural wonders located on the Colorado Plateau.  For all who love to marvel at the spectacle of natural creation, it is an awesome place to experience.