Thursday, May 28, 2020

Pipe Spring National Monument




Credit:  Linda & Dr. Dick Buscher
1.  The Arizona Strip is a desolate and vast region of northern Arizona consisting of nearly 3 million acres (1,214,057 ha) that is separated from the rest of Arizona by the magnificent Grand Canyon. The strip stretches for more than 7,800 square miles (20,202 km²) from the southern Utah border to the 277 miles (446 km) length of the northern rim of the Grand Canyon.  For early travelers, the difficulty in crossing the Grand Canyon resulted in the strip being isolated from the rest of Arizona while taking on cultural traditions and norms more closely associated with the settlement of Utah.  Yet, this barren and remote land has long played an important and critical role in the history of this part of America.   


Credit:  NPS
2.  Native Americans have long made this arid land their homes.  Ancient Puebloans were the first to live and prosper in the region with archeological artifacts found here dating back over 8,000 years. The Southern Paiute people have claimed this high desert land as a part of their homeland since 1100.  They dug small irrigation ditches in the desert soil to bring the water from desert springs into their fields of squash, sunflowers, pumpkin and corn.  NPS photo above was taken in 1878 and shows three Southern Paiute girls carrying baskets sealed with pine pitch. 


Credit:  NPS
3.  The first Europeans to pass through the Arizona Strip were a party lead by Spanish missionary Father Silvestre VĂ©lez de Escalante.  Spanish conquistadors and priests had visited the South Rim of the Grand Canyon in 1540 as a part of the Coronado Expedition but Father Escalante and his party first viewed the Grand Canyon from the North Rim in 1776.  In 1829, Spanish merchant Antonio Armijo, shown above, arrived in this land hoping to establish a trade route from Santa Fe, New Mexico to Los Angeles, California.  Toward the north central region of the Arizona Strip just south of what today is the Utah/Arizona border, he came upon a series of springs that brought fresh water to the surface of the desert land.  Armijo documented the springs and continued his trailblazing of the Old Spanish Trail. 


Credit:  NPS
4.  From 1830 to the mid-1850s, the Old Spanish Trail saw extensive use by pack trains carrying goods and people over the 700 mile (1,100 km) long trail.  It was considered one of the most difficult of all trade-route trails ever established in the United States.  One sad chapter of that trade was the opening of slave trade market by the Spanish merchants, capturing and removing Paiute women and children from their Arizona Strip homes.  Soon raiding Navajos and Utes began working for the Spanish, capturing and selling the Paiute women and children.  As a result, the Paiute people moved away from the springs of water first documented by Armijo that had long been a Paiute homesite to protect their women and children. Archeologists believe that the Southern Paiutes Kaibab band had a population of about 5,500 individuals at the time of European arrival into the Americas in 1492.  By 1860 the Southern Paiute population was estimated to be as few as 200 individuals. 



Credit:  Washington County Historical Society
5.  Mormon pioneers began exploring and moving into the Arizona Strip by the late 1850s.  The life-giving springs, first documented by Antonio Armijo, were rediscovered by a group of Latter-day Saint missionaries in 1858 traveling to the Hopi mesas and led by legendary Morman trailblazer Jacob Hamblin.  This expedition would name the area Pipe Spring.  Western lore states this name originated when William “Gunlock Bill” Haynes Hamblin, brother of Jacob Hamblin, bragged that he could shoot and hit a clay smoking pipe at a distance of 50 paces.  Gunlock Bill’s aim was perfect and the site has been known as Pipe Spring ever since.  



Credit:  Linda & Dr. Dick Buscher
6.  During the 1860s Mormon settlers brought herds of cattle to the Pipe Spring area and its reliable source of fresh water.  Navajo raiders from the south began poaching the cattle and in 1872 a fort, shown above, was built over the main spring of water by the first ranch manager, Anson Perry Winsor. This location assured that the settlers who worked the ranch would have a continual source of fresh water even during a prolonged attack. The fort soon became known as Winsor Castle and became the headquarters of the areas ever expanding Mormon cattle operation.  Winsor Castle also served as a way station for the many Mormon families traveling from Utah to northeastern Arizona to begin new Mormon communities.  

 
 Credit:  Linda & Dr. Dick Buscher
7.  Winsor Castle was never tested in battle and soon became used only as a ranch house and later as a private residence.  Since Winsor Castle covers Pipe Spring itself, the fresh water from Pipe Spring runs underground through a series of pipes before an open trough carries it across one room of the castle then emerging to the outside and filling two nearby ponds.  See photo above. 


Credit:  NPS
8.  Winsor Castle, as well as later built cabins were constructed by the quarrying of red sandstone from  local hillsides.  Local timber was harvested from trees growing in the nearby mountains and hauled to the construction site.  The castle is made up of ten rooms on two levels.  In two of the wall sections, the doors and windows face inward to a central courtyard totally inclosed by a high wall.  The upper walls were constructed with verandas connected together by an elevated corridor above the main gate.  Gun ports were strategically built into the walls but were never used in a battle.  A map of Pipe Spring is shown above.

 
 Credit:  NPS
9.  As Mormon settlement increased throughout southern Utah and the Arizona Strip the need to communicate with these distant settlements became a great concern for church leaders in Salt Lake City, Utah.  In 1871 the Deseret Telegraph Company set the poles and strung the necessary wire across this high desert landscape to Pipe Spring establishing the first telegraph station in the Territory of Arizona. Eliza Luella Stewart, age 16, became the first telegraph operator at Pipe Spring.  During the telegraph’s years of operation from 1871 - 1888, seven other women served as the Pipe Spring telegraph operator.


Credit:  Linda & Dr. Dick Buscher
10.   The famous Honeymoon Trail is an integral part of the Pipe Spring story.  Beginning in 1877, young Mormon couples living in Northern Arizona and Southwest Utah needed to travel to the Mormon Temple located in St. George, Utah to get their marriage vows sealed. The Mormon Temple in St. George was the first temple completed and dedicated west of the Mississippi River. The journey could be short or several hundred miles in length depending on where the couple lived.  It could take a few days or several weeks since their horse drawn wagons could only cover about 15 miles (24 km) each day.  They had to cross a desolate land with many potential hardships.  Most spent many nights sleeping on the ground under a canopy of a million stars.  The fresh water of Pipe Spring was a welcome rest station for these newly wed travelers.  Thousands of newly married couples made this challenging journey.  Shown above is a section of the Honeymoon Trail still scarred into the high desert floor on the Arizona Strip in northern Arizona. 

    
Credit:  NPS
11.  In 1907 the Kaibab Paiute Indian Reservation was established.  The reservation surrounded the privately owned Pipe Spring Ranch.  In 1923 the ranch was purchased from the tribe.  In May 1923 in President Warren G. Harding declared Pipe Spring a national monument to commemorate Western pioneer life.  The National Park Service is now responsible for the maintenance of the ranch, preserving it as it once was in its heyday.  The establishment of Pipe Spring National Monument was a part of a decade of development of parks and highways in southern Utah and northern Arizona to enhance the tourism business.   


Credit:  NPS
12.  Today, Pipe Spring National Monument is composed of 40 acres (16 ha) and receives over 25,000 visitors each year.  Many of those visitors stop here before continuing on to nearby Zion National Park, one of Utah’s Mighty Five national parks.  But for those who take the time to take the park ranger tour, a new appreciation for and understanding of the challenges of settling and carving out a living in this remote area of the American Southwest is surely gained.    


Credit:  Linda & Dr. Dick Buscher
13.  Pipe Spring National Monument is a wonderfully preserved settlement of the Old West.  For thousands of years men and animals have come to this site to refresh in the cool waters from the underground springs.  It has been and continues to be an oasis in the high desert.  Late spring through early fall are the best seasons to visit and this national monument is a “must see” for all who cherish the history of the American West. 
 
 

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